In Xi'an amuse oneself a day, when searching the ground to have a meal, already came at 8 o'clock. The driver says, dish of mainstream of Xi'an it doesn't matter is, the famousest is fastfood, take us to Yong Xingfang then.
在西安游玩了一天，寻地吃饭时，已至八点。司机说，西安没什么主流菜系，最出名的就是小吃，于是把我们带到了永兴坊。
Yong Xingfang is the fastfood store with well-known Xi'an collects net red ground, tang Feng is built. Not be long those who grow is fastfood a street, and show a square to distributing, arrange be like lane of Tang Dynasty city quite. A big, the edge is footpath outside, two greenery side the path. Building archaize, fastigium, white wall red tile. Along eave, the tip of a tree, street lamp, hang a lot of bright red lanterns high. Night, the lantern shines, hand in photograph reflect with the lights of the brightly lit in the shop. Voice noisy and confused, and not noisy, show only flourishing and lively.
永兴坊是西安有名的小吃铺聚集网红地，唐风建筑。不是长长的小吃一条街，而呈正方形分布，排列颇如唐代市坊。一大片，外沿是人行道，道边两排绿树。楼房仿古，尖顶，白墙红瓦。沿着屋檐、树梢、路灯，高挂许多大红灯笼。夜晚，灯笼亮起，与铺里通明的灯火交相辉映。人声鼎沸，而不嘈杂，只显繁华热闹。
Stand in the square before front door, before, a band is indifferent the ground is performed. Audience people give a ground for nothing, earmark arena, the person in front looks clear to let the person from the back, on the ground and sit. As surround the audience increase that see, to let more the person from the back looks clear, at the back of former preexistence —— now is the person among stays. Song name is not clear, libretto is Shaanxi word, also listen to understand not quite, but the lively atmosphere that is permeated with in singing, let a person listen to a body to go up of warm complacently. Advocate sing left hand to grasp mike, at the same time over or across, at the same time brandish right hand. From time to time and other happy hand each other nod, inspect laugh; From time to time moves toward audience of in front of. Folkway be caused by, between Xi'an person and person very close. Have greatly square square audience, reach a hand even, hit a bottom beautifully with the singer.
站在正门前的广场，眼前，一支乐队忘情地演奏。观众们空出一片地，充作舞台，前面的人为了让后面的人看清，席地而坐。随着围看的观众增多，为了让更后面的人看清，原先在后面——现在是中间的人便蹲下。歌名不清楚，歌词是陕西话，也听不大懂，但歌声中洋溢的欢快气氛，让人听了身上暖洋洋的。主唱左手紧握话筒，一边横跨，一边挥舞右手。时而与其他乐手彼此点点头，相视一笑；时而走向前排观众。民风所致，西安人与人之间十分亲密。有大大方方的观众，甚至伸出手，与歌手漂亮地击个掌。
Had packed a crowd, to front door. Have a cardinal lofty memorial archway. “ of horizontal plaque submit a written statement to a higher authority always promotes lane ” , handwriting is vigrous, word of blue ground gold. Down both sides post, each have 10 lanterns, horizontal plaque controls each 4. Lamplight is taking house, be like mirage kind dense flow. Golden, scarlet, and the dark blueness that goes out from the reflection on house cover with tiles, interweave diffuse, time excessive colour, must add celestial line more inky like Chinese ink. every bits of bit stars ases if have a sense of inferiority, convergent ray, hide the somewhere in the Milky way. Make the same score the sky of broad distance, be like a noiseless maritime space. Continuously cloud silk, be like the ground like the fish, carefree ground is drifting. Month of round of incomplete, as if doleful old man, angle alone sea of clouds. The building outside lane builds earnest ground beetle to be below the inside story of a plot of a become silent, see not clear outline.
挤过人群，到正门。有一座深红色的高大牌坊。横匾上书“永兴坊”，字迹苍劲，蓝底金字。顺着两边柱子，各有十只灯笼，横匾左右各四只。灯光照着屋宇，似雾气般氤氲流动。金黄、深红、以及从屋瓦上折射出的暗青，交织弥漫，流光溢彩，将天空衬得越加漆黑如墨。点点星辰仿佛自惭形秽，收敛光芒，隐匿在天河的某处。平阔辽远的天空，如一片寂静的海域。缕缕云丝，像鱼似地，悠闲地飘荡着。一轮残月，仿佛寂寞的老翁，独钓云海。坊外的楼房建筑严肃地杵在一片静默的黑幕下，看不清轮廓。
We are squeezed in bustling crowd, enter Yong Xingfang slowly. Fastfood shop is bristly inside lane, meantime highway is off-street, winding freely, seem is labyrinthian. But although got lost, irrespective also, often be linked together between road, blind saunter a few minutes, also went out. Store business is fervent. Every door mouth round the crowd. Fastfood when controlling function short, counterjumper hands or feet is deft. People comes quickly, go quickly, …… of cake of cake of Niu Za, cooked glutinous rice pounded into paste, cool skin, crusty pancake, ice cream, lens, sweet-scented osmanthus cake is less than a few seconds to be able to eat. Food weight is very full, make me impression particularly deep is beef face. The bowl that contains a scale is very big, close to the basin, two individual ability eat a bowl. Beef caboodle is on the face, form small raised. Mix with chopstick appreciably, immediately steam rising, aroma is tangy.
我们挤在熙熙攘攘的人群里，慢慢进入永兴坊。坊内小吃铺林立，其间大道小巷，蜿蜒纵横，好似迷宫。但即使迷路了，也没关系，道路之间往往相连，瞎转悠几分钟，也就出去了。铺子生意火热。每家门口都围着人群。小吃制作用时短，店员手脚麻利。人们来得快，去得快，牛杂、糍粑、凉皮、馕饼、雪糕、镜糕、桂花糕……不到几十秒就能吃到。食物分量很足，令我印象尤为深刻的是牛肉面。盛面的碗很大，近乎盆，两个人才能吃完一碗。牛肉堆在面上，形成一个小小的凸起。用筷子略微拌一拌，顿时热气蒸腾，浓香扑鼻。
Inn of cooked glutinous rice pounded into paste is by face inn. There is to be ground greatly outside inn door with joint of bones of a stone. Stone joint of bones must resemble a block of stone used as a seat greatly, compare level. Intermediate small defect, all round apophysis. The master is being taken prentice, two people face-to-face, the hand is grasped grow long mallet, making glutinous rice cake. Calling “ hey oh hey oh a work song sung to synchronize movements of ” , master, in “ hey ” word is accent; Prentice, in “ oh ” word is accent, connecting listen, it is “ hey! Oh, hey oh! ” is emphatic, as one falls. Every time mallet falls, cooked glutinous rice pounded into paste is broken flat, the surface appears the dent of a round circle. Because soft and its are bouncy, meeting appreciably is answered shrink, the composition becomes afresh bosomy bursa. Below one mallet in an instant and to, then flat go down.
面店旁是糍粑店。店门外放着一口大磨和一块石臼。石臼大得像石墩，比较平整。中间微陷，周围隆起。师傅带着徒弟，两人面对面，手握长长的木槌，在打糍粑。喊着“嘿哟嘿哟”的号子，师傅一声，在“嘿”字重音；徒弟一声，在“哟”字重音，连着听，就是“嘿！哟，嘿哟！”抑扬顿挫，此起彼伏。每次木槌落下，糍粑被砸扁，表面就出现一个圆圆的凹痕。因其柔软而有弹性，会略微回缩，作文重新变得鼓囊。下一槌转眼而至，于是又扁下去。
Take a side, bought box cooked glutinous rice pounded into paste, continue to saunter. See one swarm person be blocked up together aloof, approach, it is living person sculpture so. Blot out of actor whole body became full dark aureate dye, resembling is the small copper person in the toy. He is wearing the adornment of period of the Republic of China, placing on the side rent a car, should be wagoner. Sit on wooden stool, the foul smell that end is risking steam one bowl child face. The chopstick places the face in half sky, stop in mouth edge, make be about to feed shape. He is motionless, the eye resembles won't be being blinked forever like. Strange is person of it doesn't matter takes a picture, most person just stands in look at aside. A little while hind, seeming is to next time, who cried to him. Small copper person lived to come over suddenly, grow Shu Yisheng, twist twist a neck, in the air the face falls into mouth, begin subsequently voracious, the sound of Suo Suo is incessant.
吃完面，买了盒糍粑，继续转悠。远远地望见一大群人堵在一起，走近，原来是活人雕塑。男演员全身涂满了暗金色的颜料，像是玩具里的小铜人。他穿着民国时期的装饰，旁边摆着辆包车，应该是车夫。坐在木凳上，端一碗冒着热气的臊子面。筷子将面夹在半空，停在嘴边，作欲食状。他一动不动，眼睛就像永远不会眨似的。奇怪的是没什么人拍照，大多数人只是站在一旁看着。一会后，好像是到下班时间，谁对他喊了一声。小铜人忽然活了过来，长舒一声，扭扭脖子，半空中的面落入嘴巴，随后开始狼吞虎咽，嗦嗦之声不绝。
To-and-fro, undesigned turn in a lane. The person is little, appear kosher, voice ases if to be pulled far away. Two antique store is by the path. On the bar of shop filled up with tomb figure of qualitative military forces of Buddha of cabinet jade bracelet, wood, copper. Boss split one's sides with laughter lies on the rocking chair after bar, before one, hind, bamboo chair is constant the ground gives out “ Zhi —— ah —— Zhi —— ah the sound of ——” , his eye entires partly, confused, wanted to be asleep it seems that. My footstep can'ts help putting light.
走来走去，无意中拐入一条小巷。人少，显得清净，人声仿佛被拉得遥远。道旁是两排古玩店。铺子的柜台上摆满了小巧的玉镯、木佛、铜质兵马俑。老板捧腹躺在柜台后的摇椅上，前一下，后一下，竹椅恒定地发出“吱——呀——吱——呀——”的声音，他眼睛半阖，迷迷糊糊，似乎要睡着了。我的脚步不禁放轻。
Go forth again, display on bar became statue, clay figurine. The pedestrian also rises more gradually, it is a child for the most part. Clay figurine probably forefinger size, have emperor, general, soldier, fine horse. Colourful, lifelike. Bar divides a layer. Emperor, put in top part, outside facing inn. Wear yellow robe, carve the most elegantly also, countenance facial features is clear. The Jin Long on gown is illegallied or forcibly occupy, can fly at any time. The general has 89, the station is under the emperor. Wear armour, the hand holds weapon, countenance gravity, directing lower part to count 10 soldiers, horses. The soldier is pulling equestrian rein, bearing each different. Some is firm, get ready it seems that with body die for one's country. Return some apprehension, worry about warlike result it seems that. Children are dragging adult, shout is worn should buy that the most awe-inspiring emperor. Parent —— is mom normally, do not live explanation, persuade a child to be not bought. Finally, often end with the child's compromise. Return some child, have will too, the parent deeply its are irritated, assent, buy will or arms, pulling the child to go hastily.
再往前走，柜台上陈列的变成了塑像、泥人。行人也渐渐多起来，大部分是小孩。泥人大概食指大小，有皇帝、将军、士兵、骏马。色彩鲜艳，活灵活现。柜台分三层。皇帝只一个，放在最高处，面向店外。身着黄袍，雕刻得也最精美，面容五官清清楚楚。袍上金龙盘踞，随时都会腾飞。将军则有八九个，站在皇帝之下。身穿甲胄，手握兵器，面容严肃，指挥着下方数十士兵、马匹。士兵牵着马的缰绳，神态各异。有的坚强，似乎准备好以身殉国。还有的忧惧，似乎担心战争的结果。小孩们拽着大人，嚷嚷着要买那个最威风的皇帝。家长——通常是妈妈，不住解释，劝说小孩不要买。最后，往往以小孩的妥协告终。还有的小孩，太有毅力，家长不胜其烦，便应允，买个将或兵，急急忙忙拉着孩子走了。
Down alley child go out, arrived nave, as it happens has dancing show. Two wear the elder sister of ancient costume, bai Yi is like frost snow, red garment is like peach blossom, accompanying rising and falling pipe music, fine gauze graceful dance, the United States is like a beauty. With the band of the doorway, without arena, there is a broad and transparent glass below the foot only. The lamplight of azure blue from below according to come up, through reflection, be on the move like river water. From time to time, jump to promote place, two people can take an audience, each are pulled pull young child hand, appear on the stage in all dance. The child does not know to make what motion, wave at random, oneself amuse oneself so that burst out laughing. As time elapse, increasing child joins dancing, dominant person became child child it seems that. The laugh that be permeated with, affected the everyone on field, every adult also is hanging a smile on the face.
顺着巷子出去，就到了中央广场，正好有舞蹈表演。两个身着古装的姐姐，白衣似霜雪，红衣若桃花，伴着悠扬的笛曲，轻纱曼舞，美若天仙。和门口的乐队一样，没有舞台，只在脚下有一片宽阔透亮的玻璃。湛蓝的灯光从下面照上来，经过折射，如河水般流转。时不时地，跳至兴处，两人会走到观众间，各牵拉起一个幼童的手，上台共舞。小孩不知道做什么动作，胡乱挥手，自己把自己逗得哈哈大笑。随着时间推移，越来越多小孩加入舞蹈，主导者似乎变成了孩童。洋溢的笑声，感染了场上所有人，每位成年人脸上也挂着微笑。
Find chair of one place wood, sit down. Fiery tower, stand tall and upright in square edge as the top structure inside lane, aureate light gives fully on every building window. At the door, band advocate sing lively song sound energy faint hear. Far, the division apprentice that beats cooked glutinous rice pounded into paste still is calling a work song sung to synchronize movements, light “ hey! Oh, hey oh! ” is blown by wind, resound is by the side of ear, for a long time is incessant.
寻到一处木椅，坐下。火红的塔楼，作为坊内最高的建筑矗立在广场边，每层楼窗上都透出金色的灯光。门口，乐队主唱欢快的歌声能隐约听见。远处，捶打糍粑的师徒依然喊着号子，淡淡的“嘿！哟，嘿哟！”被风吹来，回荡在耳边，久久不绝。(文/家睿)